The Girlfriend's Guide to Jewellery
19: Calibrated Gemstones 2011-06-17
In the trade we refer to gemstones that are cut to conventional shapes and sizes as ‘calibrated stones’. Calibrated gemstones are cut in a range of consistent proportions and dimensions calculated to fit into a host of independently designed and manufactured mounts which have in turn been designed and manufactured to match the size and shapes of a range of calibrated gemstones. Imagine if each gemstone were cut into an individual shape and size; every stone would require a dedicated hand made setting!
Matching the size and shape of the gemstones to the mounts is an enormous cost saver. You can see that cutting the gemstones and designing the settings to accommodate them in a vast selection of ring, pendant, earring, bracelet or brooch styles and then casting these designs in various metals makes the possible combinations almost endless and at the same time reduces costs significantly.
Rare, expensive and rough gem material of exceptional quality is still often cut by hand. The gem cutters’ goal is always a balance between maximum weight retention and revealing the maximum beauty of the finished gem. This often results in a finished gemstone that does not have of ‘calibrated’ dimensions. Since these stones are rare and precious they ‘deserve’ their custom designed one of a kind hand made designs and settings.